The Transformation of Sami & Susu: From Storefront to Michelin-Starred Dining
In the throes of the COVID-19 pandemic, Sami & Susu began its journey not as a high-end dining establishment but as a humble general store. Founded by chef Amir Nathan, the shop offered essential ingredients like tahinis, olive oils, and honey, alongside a selection of sandwiches and salads to sustain operations during tumultuous times.
Transitioning to a Full-Service Restaurant
As Nathan communicated in an interview with Shawn Walchef, the general store format did not allow him to showcase the depth of his culinary skills. This realization sparked a profound transformation; in 2022, Sami & Susu transitioned into a full-service restaurant, altering the atmosphere from merely transactional to vibrant and electric.
Currently, securing a reservation at Sami & Susu can be quite the challenge, often requiring patrons to plan weeks in advance. Guests can expect to enjoy dishes such as hanger steak atop creamed corn and heirloom tomato salad served on thick sourdough, along with an array of crispy sweetbreads that has broadened the culinary horizons of many diners.
A Rising Star in New York’s Dining Scene
Nathan, alongside co-founder Justin Anderson, has cultivated Sami & Susu into a vibrant establishment in New York’s Lower East Side. The restaurant has quickly gained recognition, earning a Michelin Bib Gourmand for three consecutive years. However, this journey was not without its challenges; Nathan admits that the path to success included budget overruns and several missteps. “If I had focused only on the numbers, the restaurant wouldn’t have lasted a year,” he states.
A Name with Personal Significance
The name “Sami & Susu” is rich with meaning, inspired by an Israeli television show representing coexistence and paying homage to a no-frills Romanian steakhouse from Nathan’s hometown of Be’er Sheva. The restaurant’s menu reflects a unique blend of influences, drawing from both Israeli and European culinary traditions, infused with Nathan’s personal flair.
Nathan’s passion for cooking ignited at a young age; he recalls turning his family’s kitchen into a pop-up restaurant at just eight years old after being inspired by a televised chef. This innate enthusiasm has propelled him through various culinary roles in both Israel and prestigious New York kitchens, all while embracing risks and learning along the way.
Looking Ahead: New Ventures
As Sami & Susu continues to thrive, Nathan is setting his sights on a new project—Shifka, which emphasizes a pita-first approach to Middle Eastern cuisine with scalability in mind. While he does not intend to create an extensive chain, he recognizes potential for growth beyond New York City.
Even as plans for Shifka take shape, Sami & Susu maintains its charm and character, with dishes that offer an adventurous dining experience, from quirky Valentine’s Day menus featuring beef heart paired with sparkling wines, to a commitment to innovative flavors that keep patrons returning for more.
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