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This article is part of FT Globetrotter’s Paris Guide
Located at a busy intersection in Le Marais, not far from the Hôtel de Ville and the Pompidou, Le Grand Mazarin looks from the outside with cramped, uncomfortable beds, strange rooms, and an unremarkable restaurant. This is the classic Parisian hotel you would imagine. How wrong!
This boutique hotel is owned by Patrick Pariente, whose iconic 1990s brand Naf Naf, once emblazoned on the sweaters of Parisian teenagers, has now been given a new makeover by designer Martin Brudnicki. Ta. His footprint can be found at the Four Seasons Astill Palace. From Athens to Broadwick in London’s Soho. With Maison Pariente’s first hotel in the capital (adding to its portfolio of two in the south of France and one in Méribel), Brudnicki transforms what was once perhaps a standard small hotel into a cozy five-star sanctuary. I changed it. And it’s a maximalist hipster victory.
With a luxurious Ladurée macaron palette of pistachio, caramel, chocolate and lilac, velvet upholstery and wood carvings galore, the vibe is part Wes Anderson, part Jewish Grandma. The latter is an homage to the Marais district, which is just around the corner from the hotel. This winning combination is most evident in the small lobby, with its washed silk walls, covered curtains, and gold-framed oil landscape paintings. Here, guests can sit in plush upholstered chairs while waiting to check in or check out, while bellboys in Grand Budapest Hotel-inspired purple uniforms wheel luggage on golden carts.
restaurant and bar
Le Grand Mazarin’s centerpiece attraction is Boubare, a ground-floor Ashkenazi-themed restaurant helmed by renowned Israeli chef Assaf Granit. The Bwabre, as it is affectionately called in Yiddish, is the heart of the hotel, with its frilly lampshades and folkloric fabric wall coverings, creating a homely, welcoming, and very un-Parisian atmosphere. It’s brewing. When we visited on a Friday night, the restaurant was fully booked with groups of friends and family gathered for a feast. And it’s a feast.
The menu includes traditional Eastern European dishes including Granite’s aromatic chopped liver, gravlax, pierogi, and schnitzel, complemented by delicate herb salads, tomatoes with pomegranate molasses, and other flavorful seasonings. It is attached. In keeping with the Jewish Grandma theme, the food is served on crisp tableware and is hearty. Be sure to leave room for a wonderfully smooth chocolate mousse with olive oil and sea salt. Then, step through the heavy curtains and head to Le Bar de Boubalé for an after-dinner cocktail.
Guest room
Our junior suite was located in the eaves, up a private staircase, and was particularly snug with its tapestry canopy over the king-sized bed and plenty of low lamps. The pink marble-clad bathroom had a walk-in shower and separate bathtub (a real rarity in Paris), not to mention double sinks, and was one of life’s great luxuries, even if only for one night. Meanwhile, the small balcony was the perfect window to sit with an after-dinner drink and look out onto the lively Vellely Street below. (Fortunately, once the patio door was firmly closed, I couldn’t hear anything.)
pool and gym
In-ground pools with hand-painted murals and evocative mosaics are all the rage in Paris these days. The pool here is small and striped, with alternating blue and white tiles. Lie on your back (in the too-warm water) and admire Jacques Merle’s playful Cocteau-like murals. The 24-hour gym is also stylish and equipped with classy wooden fitness equipment. It’s like you could imagine Wes Anderson holding Chez Louis.
area
The location is perfect for shopping (Rue de Rivoli and BHV department store are 1 minute away) or strolling along Rue du Marais with its artful falafel scents. Within walking distance of virtually anywhere in central Paris, the Center Pompidou is 5 minutes away and the Musée National Picasso in Paris is 10 minutes away.
At a glance
Rooms and Suites: 50 rooms and 11 suites. Three suites can be linked together to accommodate large family gatherings.
Why we recommend it: Boubalé, the hotel’s premier Ashkenazi restaurant. Close to shops and cafes in the Marais
Not so good for: People on a budget – this is a treat stay
Note: No matter what you do, don’t miss breakfast. Every morning, the central table (often featured on the hotel’s Instagram account) groans with tiers of viennoiserie, homemade apple tarts, madeleines, fruit salads, and juices, while the chef’s counter is filled with cheese, Ham and bread are displayed, and of course eggs are ordered at the table.
Prices: double from 690 euros, breakfast included (early January)
Address: 17 Rue de la Verrerie, 75004 Paris
Website; Directions
Rebecca Rose stays as a guest at Le Grand Mazarin
Do you have a favorite hotel in Paris? Tell us about it in the comments below. Follow FT Globetrotter (@FTGlobetrotter) on Instagram.
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