Introduction: The Enigma of Tacos
The origins of tacos continue to be a subject of intrigue and speculation. While some believe that tacos are rooted in Mesoamerican traditions, enjoyed alongside small fish long before the Spanish arrived, others postulate that they originated in the 18th century among silver miners in Mexico. Despite these theories, what remains clear is the taco’s enduring presence, having become a favorite food item across varying cultures and nations. This phenomenon is beautifully illustrated through the story of Manolo de la Torre, affectionately known as ‘Taco Manny,’ who has made tacos a staple among the lunchtime crowd in Peckham, southeast London.
The Taco Revelation at Rye Lane Market
My first encounter with Taco Manny took place in November 2023, when he held a pop-up at Rye Lane Market. As he greeted patrons with enthusiasm, exclaiming about having “the best tacos in London,” I was eager to see if his claim was valid. What followed was an exquisite experience featuring a trio of large golden tortillas filled with dishes like slow-cooked beef birria, fatty carnitas (pulled pork), and unbelievably tender beef tongue. What made the meal even more delightful were the perfectly paired salsas and a slice of lime—all served for less than $10. Indeed, it was a taco revelation that fully warranted Taco Manny’s boast.
Guacamole’s: From Pop-Up to Permanent Venue
De La Torre’s expertise quickly elevated his pop-up into a permanent establishment called Guacamole’s, which he co-runs with his wife, Gabriella. Their rise in popularity was partly catalyzed by a serendipitous encounter with Jonathan Nunn, the founding editor of the newsletter Vittles. Following a glowing review, Guacamole’s appeal began to extend beyond its Latino roots, contributing to a growing, diverse clientele. Although Manny and Gabriella now find themselves busy with operations, they often reflect on how their success is a blessing they owe to divine intervention.
A Legacy of Fast Food: The Family Connection
Fast food runs in de la Torre’s blood; his grandfather made a prosperous career selling burritos to industrial workers in Veracruz, Mexico. This family legacy forged a path for Manny, who balanced his culinary pursuits with a career as a DJ. His reflective nostalgia reveals how intertwined both aspects of his life truly are, as he fondly remembers being “blessed” to have experienced diverse opportunities before establishing his own taco haven.
The Impact of Violence and Seeking Asylum
However, Manny’s narrative takes a serious turn as he recounts the violence that forced him to flee Mexico. The murder of his cousin, which followed the tragic death of another family member at the hands of the Jalisco New Generation cartel, served as a stark reminder of the dangers he faced. Shortly thereafter, he received a chilling message instructing him to make monthly payments to protect his family, further amplifying his fears. This relentless threat forced him into hiding before ultimately seeking asylum in the United Kingdom.
The Struggles of Asylum and Resilience
Upon arriving in the UK, the asylum process proved grueling as he was placed in a hotel for nearly two years, unable to work, which left him feeling like a prisoner. This challenging chapter of his life was characterized by uncertainty. However, fortuitously, a pastor connected him to an immigration lawyer who helped him navigate the complex legal landscape, granting him the opportunity to settle in East London. His resilience shines through, showcasing how adversity has shaped both his culinary career and personal philosophy.
Crafting Authentic Tacos in London
Determined to introduce authentic Mexican cuisine to London, de la Torre noticed a significant gap in the marketplace. He realized the demand for quality, affordable tacos was large, given that many establishments charged over £10 per taco. With a commitment to making tacos accessible, he emphasized that good food should not be exorbitantly priced. His culinary philosophy focuses on carefully sourcing ingredients and honoring traditional Mexican recipes, utilizing up to 17 different spices for dishes like his birria, which demonstrates his dedication to authenticity and flavor.
Conclusion: A Culinary Success Story
Today, Guacamole’s exists as a permanent fixture in Rye Lane Market, embodying the principles of quality and community spirit. Alongside his acclaimed tacos, dishes like pozole and his famous Tres Leches Cake showcase the richness of the cuisine he loves. While he may have moved to London seeking safety, Manny has not only found solace in his new life but has also established a thriving culinary presence in the city. His journey from a tumultuous past to a successful future stands as a testament to resilience, creativity, and the transformative power of sharing culture through food.
FAQs
Where is Guacamole’s located?
Guacamole’s is located at Unit 61, Rye Lane Market, 48 Rye Lane, London SE15 5BY.
What type of food does Guacamole’s serve?
Guacamole’s specializes in authentic Mexican food, particularly tacos, but also offers other traditional dishes like pozole and Tres Leches Cake.
Is the taco menu at Guacamole’s affordable?
Yes, Guacamole’s aims to keep its food affordable, with tacos priced under $10, making them accessible for local diners.
Can I find vegetarian options at Guacamole’s?
Yes, Guacamole’s offers non-meat options in addition to their popular meat-filled tacos.
How did Taco Manny gain popularity?
Taco Manny gained traction after a supportive review from the editor of a food newsletter, which helped bring more attention to his offerings beyond the local Latino community.