This article is part of FT Globetrotter’s guide to Edinburgh.
Outdoor activities on a freezing cold Scottish night may sound like a lot, but Edinburgh’s New Year’s Festival has plenty of fire and flames to keep you warm. The city’s four-day Hogmanay (Scottish for the last day of the year) celebrations begin with a torchlight parade dating back to pagan times and culminate with a cannon and fireworks display from a medieval castle overlooking the city. reach. On the days in between, revelers sing their hearts out, dance to ceirides (traditional Scottish folk dances), and hug warm toddies outside foggy pub windows. The party ends abruptly on January 1st with a swim in the frigid Firth of Forth.
Hogmanay has been Scotland’s main winter festival since Yule, Christmas, was banned in 1640 during the Protestant Reformation, and New Year’s Eve was introduced to meet the demand for end-of-year revelry. Ironically for Protestants, the ban revived pagan customs throughout Scotland. For example, on the “eve” of the New Year there is a grand clean-up to wipe out any remaining bad luck, a parade of fire, and the belief that the first person to cross the threshold stands first. January 1st will bring good or bad luck to your family this year. The most desirable first-footers were dark-haired men who carried gifts such as whiskey, coal or peat for heating, bread, and silver coins.
Candlelit Hogmanay gatherings are common in Edinburgh around the 17th-century Tron Kirk Church, culminating with a rendition of Robert Burns’ poem ‘Auld Lang Syne’ set to folk music. did. The celebrations grew in popularity over time, attracting more tourists, and in 1993 the city held its first official street party, taking over Princes Street and the Gardens main thoroughfare. The candlelight concert, to be held in St Giles Cathedral on the evening of December 31st, retains traditional elements.
As time went on, more festivities were added to the street party, and Hogmanay came to include a whole program of ticketed events. Due to its huge popularity, advance planning is highly recommended. Below is a timeline to help you navigate the nights leading up to New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Eve itself.
There are no pubs at major viewing spots such as Princes Street or Calton Hill, so be sure to wear plenty of warm clothing, bring a thermos and hip flask, and be prepared to be out all night. As fireworks light up the inky Scottish sky, lock arms with those around you, sing ‘Auld Lang Syne’ and say ‘you and yours’ and sip a traditional glass of whisky.
Torchlight procession (December 29th)
To kick off the four-day festival, organizers of the Edinburgh Hogmanay Street Party have revived the Torchlight Parade, a historic tradition seen in the Scottish countryside. They drew inspiration from the famous rituals of the village of Comrie in Perthshire, which are believed to date back to pagan times. Comrie Flambeau aims to cleanse the village of evil spirits, and the torch is symbolically thrown into the River Erne at the end. In Edinburgh, the procession begins at 7.30pm on the Meadows tree line. Around 20,000 torch bearers, accompanied by pipers and drummers, marched a little more than a mile through the Meadows, across George IV Bridge and along Johnston Terrace to the city gates, holding the torch aloft as the park burst into flames and smoke. Enliven by the scent of wax. Like a Viking invasion. This year, the Shetlanders, who host the legendary Viking-inspired Up Helly Are Fire Carnival at the end of January, will travel to Edinburgh to add even more pagan pomp to Hogmanay.
Arrived at Meadows before 6pm. Torches cost £20 and queue wristbands cost £7.50. Buy tickets here
new year’s eve keiris
On the evening of December 31st, the ceilidh used to take place under the castle in the gardens of West Princes Street, but has now been moved indoors to the Assembly Rooms on George Street. There are two planned. One at 2pm (Bairn’s New Year’s Revelry, a family-friendly event) and the other at 9pm. Ceilidh is the simplest and best way for large groups to socialize. First-timers may bump into other people or spin in random directions, but this is all part of the fun and should be accepted. Before each dance begins, the caller will guide you through simple steps, so you won’t make too many mistakes. Organized chaos then ensues as a live folk band of strings and accordion belts out classic ceilidhs like Gay Gordon’s, Strip the Willow and Posty’s Jig. The Millennium Hogmanay Seyreid also set a world record. About 2,000 people marched along George Street in the longest Strip the Willow Line in history.
Hogmanay Street Party & Concert in the Gardens
Two ticketed events will take place simultaneously, with singers, bands and DJs taking to stages at Princes Street and the Gardens, Castle Street and Waverley Bridge. Previous Concert in the Gardens headliners have included Pulp, Primal Scream, Pet Shop Boys and Blondie. This year’s winner is Callum Beatty, a singer-songwriter from Glasgow and Edinburgh, Texas. After 8pm, tickets from £72.50. Book here.
The Hogmanay Street Party gets very busy, so arrive early enough, at least by 9pm. At midnight, fireworks are set off from the castle, accompanied by dramatic music from a live orchestra. At the end, the crowd across Princes Street joins hands and sings “Auld Lang Syne.” Toasts are made with whiskey drums, and once the fireworks are over, everyone dances their hearts out in the streets to the music in front of a roaring crowd. After 8pm, tickets from £30. Book here
calton hill
For the past few years, I’ve avoided the street parties and watched them for free from the top of Calton Hill. Calton Hill is a high point just above Princes Street, close enough that you can still feel some of the action. (If you want to see the city from above, climb the big hill at Arthur’s Seat). For me, Calton Hill is the most atmospheric place to say goodbye to this year. Behind you is the misty Firth of Forth, Arthur’s Seat off to one side overlooking Edinburgh, the city lights twinkling below. Like most street parties, this spot is crowded, but small groups of friends enjoy picnics with hot sausages wrapped in aluminum foil, thermoses of boozy hot chocolate, and packs of sparklers. I’m here. direction
new year’s eve elsewhere
For a more intimate experience, head to Inverleith Park in north Edinburgh and watch the fireworks from a distance. Free family-centered fun takes place here, including midnight picnics and people bringing their own instruments. Advance planners can also book a table at Chao Phraya Restaurant, which offers top-notch Thai cuisine and rooftop views across the castle, or try the equally beautiful W Hotel lounge. Great views of the castle can also be had from Bruntsfield Links Park, on the south side of town, beside the Meadows. Enjoy a Hogmanay Hooley dinner at the cozy Golf Tavern Pub, then head out to the Links at midnight to watch the skies light up.
New Year’s Day Looney Duck
hangover? If so, join the thousands of people across Scotland who dress up in limb-numbing costumes and swim in freezing seas on New Year’s Day. The closest ‘loony dock’ to Edinburgh is South Queensferry, under the Forth Rail Bridge. A drum band marches through the streets as hundreds of ‘debauchers’ in eccentric costumes, from tartan warriors to flamingos, prepare to dive into the icy waters off the Fife coast. The party atmosphere remains, but the pubs don’t open early, so bring a flask and some instant porridge. It’s all for charity, and just the thought may warm your heart as you shiver on your journey back to Edinburgh (there are usually bookable bus transfers arranged at Looney Duc). Masu). Tip: Don’t be fooled if you see locals wearing trunks or bikinis. If you come from a warm climate, be careful of hypothermia. This swim is for the reckless and brave. From 1pm. Click here for details
If you’re planning on staying in Edinburgh over the holidays, how will you celebrate Hogmanay? Let us know in the comments below. Follow FT Globetrotter (@FTGlobetrotter) on Instagram.
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